advanced color placement techniques: RED CARPET HAIR

April 12, 2019

jessica here! if you’ve been following our channel, you’ve probably heard me talk about RED CARPET GLAM HAIR. as ombres fade into the background, i truly believe these looks will be the new front and center. long story short: they’re timeless.

today i’m going to take show you how to give your clients that RED CARPET HAIR using advanced color placement techniques.

enter our giveaway here: https://www.nvenn.com/giveaway

ANALYZING the client’s hair

the first step of any service is to analyze what your clients walks through the door with. i ALWAYS suggests to do a FULL CONSULTATION to learn about the history of your client’s hair. from there you can dig through your repertoire of advanced color techniques and plan out the perfect placement for your color.

if you need a refresher, i recorded a video on how to a hair consultation. you can find it here.

advanced color placement techniques the hair before color

in behin’s case, it’s easy to see she has 3 different levels of color in her hair. the COLOR PLACEMENT will be dependant on her existing color.

using the COLOR PLACEMENT TECHNIQUE

the bottoms of behin’s hair have a bit of blonde, so i’ve decided to incorporate blonde throughout her hair. i’ve mixed blondeme with a blue additive. i don’t want to neutralize all of the warmth, but i know she’s going to pull A LOT of warmth so the blue additive will be an essential part of this mixture.

advanced color placement techniques backcombing

because i want to avoid this service being a BIG COLOR CORRECTION, my strategy is to incorporate as much of her existing blonde into her finished color.

advanced color placement techniques foiling the hair

as i’m moving throughout the hair, i’m lightly feathering the lightener on. backcombing the hair is great way to ensure that the finished color will have a seamless finish.

advanced color placement techniques feathering and fine weaves

when i reach the parietal ridge of the head, i will use a FINE TO MEDIUM WEAVE.

PRO TIP: keep in mind that you’ll want to keep the texture of the hair in mind when choosing your weaving technique. behin has coarser hair, if the weave is too fine you wouldn’t be able to see it.

advanced color placement techniques foils applied

i’ll repeat this process around the head. once the initial color placement has been completed, i’m going to ANALYZE the hair again to add any final touches.

advanced color placement techniques lightening the ends

now that her hair has processed a bit, i want to go through and lighten some of her old color a little bit more. i’m identifying any of the blonde that’s closer to a level 6 and feathering on some lightener. yes she does want a warmer finish but she doesn’t want it brassy. bumping her blonde that extra little bit will help to eliminate any of that really orange color that hair pulls when you lighten it to a level 6-7. if you want to learn more about underlying pigments, you can watch this video i made on the law of color.

PRO TIP: for a warm NOT BRASSY finish, lighten the hair to a level 8 and then color it back to your desired warm tone. caramel tones are usually a level 6 or 7 and the underlying pigment at both of those levels have a strong orange color therefore when it fade, that’s what the client sees. you can avoid this by lightening the hair just past a level 7.

TONING the hair

advanced color placement techniques ready for wash and tone

i can see that behin’s hair is ready to be washed and power dried.

advanced color placement techniques before toner

now i’m going to tone her hair. today i’m going to add beige into her toner formula. this beige has a base of green and yellow. the green will neutralize the really orangy parts and it’ll deposit a bit of gold which will give her that nice caramel finish.

advanced color placement techniques pravana toner

i’ve mixed 3 different pravana express toners, each at a ⅓. one third is natural, one third is violet (to cut the yellow), and the last third is beige. pravana express toners and very pigmented, so i use the natural color to dilute its intensity.

STYLING the hair + the FINAL LOOK!

advanced color placement techniques nvenn volume heat activated volumixer

i’m going to start with nvenn’s ‘volume’. this heat-activated weightless volumizer is PERFECT for coarser hair.

advanced color placement techniques nvenn smooth split end mender

next, i’m using nvenn’s ‘smooth’ to define her curls. this can also be used as a FLYAWAY tamer.

Finished look

and i’m done! you can see this BEAUTIFUL look is the essence of RED CARPET GLAM. if you have any questions about toners, formulas, or our products: ask us in the comments or at @nvennhairbeauty on Instagram, or Youtube. :)