CUSTOMIZING haircuts for men - working with natural GROWTH PATTERNS
this is davis and he's ready for a change in his look!
we have met his sister, montana, in our previous videos. she loves to try our cool and unique styles. you can check those out here -
how to do TEAL hair with a color melt
veronica is going to be giving davis a FRESH CUT and doing some COLOUR.
currently, he has this cool, disconnected “mushroom cut”. davis wants to mimic a tiktok celebrity’s hair cut.
you can see in this inspiration photo that he has some light in there, so veronica is going to add highlights.
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this new cut is still going to be long on top we well but we’re going to BLEND out all of the disconnection that davis currently has. this style is going to be a lot easier for him to style.
davis needs a haircut that can work around his life. he intends to put time into styling it, but there are occasions where he may just want to WASH and GO. veronica is going to make sure the cut is still something that he could wear messier, pushed to the side, or pulled back.
when he does have the time to style, he will have to put the front swoop into his hair with either a round brush or flat iron.
veronica will demonstrate a 5-minute BLOW DRY to get that bold swoop at the front, fast and easily.
there is a bit of a challenge here, as davis has been wearing his part down the middle for a long time. if he is not dedicated to styling it and blow drying it out, his hair is going to part in the center by default. we will cover how to prevent that at the end as well!
cutting off the excess
veronica is going to start with the cut first to get off the stuff that she doesn’t need to colour.
she is going to cut the back and sides short and leave the length on top, for now. leaving the top longer will make it easier to put foils in.
the ENTIRE TOP of his head is going to be highlighted.
in the crown, veronica is going to be using a SCISSOR OVER COMB technique to cut his hair.
PRO TIP: when cutting the crown of the head, make sure to comb all the hair into it’s natural growth pattern before you start to cut. this is a VISUAL PROCESS that will be different from person to person.
davis has some STRONG GROWTH PATTERNS and cowlicks in his hair. we need to take that into account so that his hair sits properly when he styles it.
the first step is to comb the hair into the direction that it grows BEFORE YOU CUT IT. this will make his hair easy to WASH and STYLE.
if we don’t comb his hair into his natural growth pattern before cutting it that way, davis is going to be fighting with his hair all the time.
moving on to the top of the haircut
veronica is going to be pulling the hair straight up from his head and working her way towards the front hairline.
she is going to use her first section as the GUIDE for the entire top of his head. she will overdirect each new section into the previous section. this will give a slight increase in length as you move towards the face.
adding in the COLOUR
veronica is going to foil the top section of his head.
because the finished color will be blended highlights, davis will see his black roots come in, but it won't be harsh.
depending on how he styles it, he won't really see a LINE of DEMARCATION as it grows out.
veronica is going to just do two sections to keep it organized.
she is going to alternate between a WEAVE and SLICE pattern. she will start placing foils in at the front of his hairline.
veronica is going to put in a FOIL right along his hairline so that davis will see blonde if he pulls his hair back.
the first foil is going to be a medium weave.
after leaving about ¼ inch of space, the next foil is going to be a slice.
veronica is going to work her way through the section, alternating between weaves and slices.
she is going to be putting in the foils with a HEAVY DENSITY. that means that there's not going to be much spacing in between each foil. for this look, she wants about 50% black and 50% blonde hair.
make sure to foil the crown so that you don't have any dark patches of dark back there.
moving on to the other side, we are going to be MIRRORING what we did on this side.
because his hair is all going to be worn forward,veronica will put his foils in HORIZONTALLY.
PRO TIP: be sure to take into consideration how the hair is going to be worn so that you can put your foils in accordingly based on the type of highlights you want to see.
here are davis's foils all applied.
we can see the colour PROCESSING and is looking awesome.
veronica is now going to mix the toner.
at the sink, davis is ready to RINSE OUT. you can see how nice the blonde is. this is the perfect palette for us to put the toner on.
this is what the colour looks like PRE TONER with all the lightner washed out.
toning to perfection
veronica is toning with half 8a and a half 10p from matrix. this is going to tone out all of the yellow and the WARMTH so that he will end with a really nice beige blonde.
here's the toner all applied. you can see it's already starting to NEUTRALIZE out the yellow in there.
we can see the toner IN ACTION. it's ready to rinse out. the yellow is NEUTRALIZED.
here's the toner washed out. we can definitely see pieces that are blonde and black but once this is blow dried, it's all going to blend together.
finishing the haircut
veronica is going to blend out his sides and make sure the LENGTH is exactly where davis wants it.
if you see a corner like this, that means there’s a DISCONNECTION. to blend it out, just cut out the corner.
PRO TIP: you want to make sure that the hair is sitting naturally how it would fall before you cut it. if you don't cut with the GROWTH PATTERN in mind, the person wearing it is going to have to fight with it all the time.
to check if there are any corners, veronica is going to take pie shaped sections from the crown and pull them straight out from the head. cut out any corners that you find.
growth patterns can be challenging to deal with in coarse hair textures.
oftentimes, there could be hair that wants to STICK OUT like this. to fix this, veronica will texturize into that piece to soften it.
at this point, veronica will go in visually and clean up the corners using a scissor over comb technique.
davis wants a little bit of disconnection in the front, so vernonia will make sure to leave out the hair at the front.
now to clean it up and do some FINE TUNING on the length.
veronica is starting from the back of his head to choose her length. she is going to OVER DIRECT the hairs back to this guide length to preserve length in the front.
then, another pass over the CORNERS to ensure his cut is blended properly.
davis has another cowlick on his front right that veronica will have to work around.
PRO TIP: when a client comes in with an inspiration photo, you’ll likely need to CUSTOMIZE it a bit to account for their natural growth patterns.
here you can easily see his cowlick (on the left) because it sticks straight out. veronica is going to cut into that a little bit so that it LIES FLAT for him.
veronica is going to do the same on the other side now.
every look should be customized to your client’s head of hair.
veronica is going to TEXTURIZE his whirl to break up the blonde and to soften his “ whirl growth pattern”.
veronica continues to customize the cut to be perfect for davis’ head and hair growth patterns.
this length is perfect for davis. he can wear it down like so, or he can even part it like he had before.
now veronica will show davis how to get that bold front swoop in just a few minutes.
locking in the style
the three things you need to ensure you have the style you want are
- the right HAIRCUT
- proper TOOLS and PRODUCTS
- the KNOWLEDGE to execute the style
since his cut is done, let's get into the products and the tools.
we're going to be putting in our nvenn ‘texture’ paste.
it's a whipped paste and very PLIABLE, so it's really great for blow dry styling. the nice part about this paste is that it is LIGHT and FLUFFY, so it's not going to feel gunky in the hair at all and it's actually really nice for holding weight.
veronica is going to be putting the paste in ROOTS to ENDS and adding a small amount to his sides to ensure they lay flat.
veronica is instructing davis to use a DENMAN BRUSH. it is a very good stylist brush and it is actually going to be easier for him to use than a round brush.
veronica is going to give his hair a quick, POWDER DRY with the product in. once she’s removed the excessive moisture, she’ll use a brush to finish the style.
she starts by just using her hands to MOLD his HAIR up.
finally, veronica will incorporate the brush to finish off the style like Chase Ko (tik tok star).
picking up the hair with the brush, you're going to be pulling it up and out. your goal is to ROUND it up (bevel the ends up).
Veronica wants to give davis’s hair some BODY and LIFT.
and just like that - the style is done!
last thing veronica is going to do is clean up his neck line.
veronica is going to fade in the perimeter so that davis has a natural hairline rather than it looking blocked off.
the last thing you want to do for all short haircuts is to clean up the neck and get rid of any short hairs that might still be there. a STRAIGHT RAZOR is perfect for this.
finishing the look off with some of nvenn’s ‘fix’ hairspray to hold it in.
it is the BEST for finishing the hair with WEIGHTLESS BODY. this will give you the same body that you would normally get on “DAY 2” of your style. it is scented with SWEET ORANGE to give your hair a citrusy clean finish!
and here you have it!
if you guys have any questions about it, leave a comment below. i'll make sure to get them all answered for you.
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