highlighting pattern to REMOVE UNWANTED HAIR COLOR; using weaves to color correct hair 😎
hey guys, veronica is in the studio with angie. angie has a fun and complex colour that she is wanting REMOVED today.
the last time we did angie’s hair was eons ago! you can see the remnants of when this colour was done. however, it has been at least a year since she has been in the studio.
ALOT can happen in a year
we have a lot going on here. when the colour was applied A YEAR AGO, it was a reddish tone that melted into balayage of a bright copper colour. everyone knows that copper tones do not last in hair as long as we all would like.
since that colour, angie has decided to experiment with her hair outside of the salon.
she had a slumber party and tried to put a little bit more red in her hair but that washed out and her blonde peaked back through.
cue ANOTHER SLUMBER PARTY where the bottom section was dyed and it turned a really faded pink. she then re-dyed her hair into - what was supposed to be - a blue, but it just turned out black. now that the blue colour washed out, it’s now showing up green.
angie does like the dark roots fading into the reddish colour and then into the blonde on the ends. there is also this darker tone underneath that ended up looking black for a while, but now it's faded out too. her color now needs to be CLEANED UP.
angie wants this new colour to be LOW MAINTENANCE and to work with the colours in her hair already.
the best way to blend out the faded black/blue bottom is for veronica to do a full head of HIGHLIGHTS. veronica will keep the red colour in between, but will focus on moving the blonde up.
if angie really wanted to fully get rid of this faded colour, veronica would also have to strip the hair and do a colour in between.
but again, angie is not looking for a big job. again, she wants the colour to be very LOW MAINTENANCE.
the other option that veronica could do is a PARTIAL HIGHLIGHT. if she did a partial, she would only blend out the discoloration on top.
what is the difference between a PARTIAL and a FULL HEAD of highlights?
when doing a partial, the client is going to have some pieces on the side that get done but none underneath; the highlights would be mostly on the TOP LAYER of the hair.
if angie just did a partial, looking at the hair straight-on would look fine but if she were to tie up her hair, it would expose that unwanted pigment underneath.
a partial also wouldn’t BLEND OUT the dark underneath.
angie's decision
if you are going to do something - DO IT RIGHT! angie and veronica decided that a full head of highlights is going to be the best plan.
angie is experimenting with growing out her hair, so veronica is going to keep as much length as possible and layer everything else. she is also going to add in some face-framing layers to soften the look around her face.
this way, angie will have a nice WASH and WEAR style that she can just dry and go!
taking a look at the state of angie's ends, you can see and feel some damage in them.
in order to get all of those dead ends off, veronica is going to take off about AN INCH.
a decent amount of the faded colour in the back will also be taken off with this trim.
let's get started!
veronica has her hair SECTIONED OUT into four quadrants.
angie’s part line at the top was used as the section pattern. this is how angie parts her hair daily, so we will use this as our GUIDE for colour placement
veronica is going to get started on the front sections. this is to allow those first foils to process longer and provide more LIGHT around her face.
veronica is also going to choose the thicker section on angie's left to begin with. if veronica started with the right hand side, those hairs would PROCESS much lighter than the other side of her head (because it’s a smaller section).
veronica is going to be using a SHADOWED ROOT highlighting technique starting at the bottom of the section and she’ll work her way up.
nvenn has done several shadow root videos in the past that dive deeper into the process of the TECHNIQUE. check out our shadow root playlist on our youtube channel to learn the process step-by-step!
veronica has chosen to alternate the WEAVE PATTERN. in some of the foils, she is going to be using a fine weave, others a medium weave, and some of them she will be using a thicker weave.
this process is also combined with staggering the amount of regrowth left at the ROOT.
using a variety of effects and staggering, the root color remaining is going to give a very DIFFUSED LINE from dark to light. it is also going to create variety with some blended fine weave highlights along with some larger colour chunks.
PRO TIP: when getting to the top of the section around the face, you want to really visualize how you want the end colour to look, and foil the hair accordingly. envision the final look and be sure to apply the correct amount of highlight to reach your goal.
here’s a foil with a thicker weave.
veronica then follows that with a babylight fine weave.
this is going to create a diffused highlight that will work to break up the chunkier highlight underneath. again, this helps to create a DIFFUSED line from her root to the blonde.
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onto the SECOND SIDE
veronica is going to mirror what she did on the first side with the second side of angie’s head.
angie has very little blonde left on her ends, so veronica is going to paint the LIGHTENER on the majority of the strand.
PRO TIP: you want to make sure to pull out any blonde that may be there and ensure you are not painting lightener onto it. you do not want to overprocess OR over-lighten the pieces that are already blonde.
when doing a shadow root, using BABYLIGHTS in your foiling pattern is an effective way to help you diffuse the colour from dark to light. a babylight is essentially a very fine weave.
the THICKNESS of each client's hair will affect how dense of a weave you're going to be using for your babylight. if their hair is very thick, like angie's, it's going to be a little bit thicker of a weave, so that you can see it in the hair. if you have a client with very fine hair, you want a very fine weave.
on the top of each section, make sure you are using the same foiling effect. you want to mirror how the hair looks on each side, as well as the back.
CLEANING up the back
veronica is going to continue with the same foiling technique on the back of angie’s head.
in the nape section, veronica leaves a little bit MORE DARK in the root than she would around the front. this is because naturally, most individuals have a bit more dark tones in the back of the head, so it’ll give it a NATURAL effect.
do not worry about putting babylights under the nape as much, as they won’t be as visible. instead, you really want to make sure that you're incorporating the babylights on top of the OCCIPITAL BONE.
on the other side of the head, make sure again that you're going to be mirroring what you did on the left side as you did on the right side. you want to create a SYMMETRICAL LOOK.
PRO TIP: if you run out of long foils, you can stack short foils. you can still have the effect of using a long foil by having the hair laid out completely on the foil, so that it can process very evenly.
processing and FINALIZING the look
here are angie’s foils all completed.
let's take a peek at how angie’s hair is looking in the foils. oh, it looks very good. now veronica is ready to WASH.
here we are. veronica is all done. check out how beautiful this looks. it's been four hours and 45 minutes! that's what happens when people have a ton of hair! but it was with it and look how good angie’s hair looks.
veronica achieved a nice SEAMLESS BLEND. there is also a nice dark root, so angie won’t have to worry about coming in too soon for a touch up.
you can see the little bit of remnants of the previous colour here, just slightly, if we look really close. otherwise to the naked eye, it will not be visible.
if you guys have any questions about it, leave a comment below. i'll make sure to get them all answered for you.
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