CHOOSING THE RIGHT foil pattern for your client : breaking down a hair photo beauty strategy
hey beauty activists!
today veronica is doing a colour change for our model ximena. ximena is staying in the same colour family, keeping her natural colour on top with some of the blonde at the bottom. however, veronica is going to be changing up the color placement a bit.
the target is a colour that ximena had a while ago that she ABSOLUTELY LOVED. unfortunately, she hasn't been able to recreate it.
in this photo, you can see the colour pattern is quite different from what ximena has now.
in ximena’s hair now, the bottom half of her hair is super blonde, so we're not seeing those DEFINED PIECES of blonde in there.
to give her that definition that she is looking for, we’re going to add in some lowlights through her ends to break up the blonde, and some blonde through her regrowth to break up the dark.
there's actually going to be less blonde, but the blonde will be more EYE CATCHING due to the contrast.
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upon examining a couple other of ximena's photos, we can see that she does have a lot of blonde on her ends. veronica wants to keep some of the blonde so rather than putting on a solid color over it, she will just lowlight it to break it up.
she is going to do a LOW-DENSITY FOIL PATTERN since the client wants to see that ‘pieciness’.
PRO TIP: it's a really good idea to evaluate and look at MULTIPLE PHOTOS. you don't want to go off one image where the hair is parted in a certain way. check out multiple photos to see what their hair looks like from all angles so that you get the foil pattern correct!
getting started
veronica has already cut ximena’s hair and is ready to get started with the foils.
here's her hair SECTIONED OUT. veronica has used ximena’s natural part to separate it down the center.
then each side is split in half right above the ears to create FOUR QUADRANTS.
veronica is now colour matching ximena’s natural hair.
in the first photo, veronica tries a level six. 6N is a little bit lighter than what we need.
she then checks level 5, which didn’t quite blend in.
finally, a level 4 matches perfectly!
the goal is to match her natural colour as closely as possible to MIMIC the COLOUR that grows out of her head. this way, as her hair grows out, she doesn't have to continuously redo the brown - just touch up the blonde.
applying the FOILS
starting at the bottom of the section and working our way up, veronica starts to apply color to the front right quadrant.
the pattern that she is using is two blonde slices to one low light slice of 4n (which is ximena’s NATURAL COLOUR). veronica will make sure that the blonde slices are spaced out enough so that the highlights are distinct (rather than having a blended color at the end). she will leave about ¾” between each blonde slice.
after the second blonde foil, veronica will be putting in a back to back lowlight with NO SPACES IN BETWEEN! the lowlight will fill in the natural color that is missing through her ends.
ximena’s pattern will be : “blonde - ¾” space - blonde - 2 lowlights - repeat”
veronica continues up the section, following the same foiling pattern.
under the temples and on the sides, veronica is going to be using a HORIZONTAL SLICING pattern. this is going to create a blended effect with the blonde and the dark.
once veronica gets to the top of the section, she switches the direction of her foils to VERTICAL.
ximena wants the highlights around her face to look ‘piecey’. she wants CHUNKY BLONDE SECTIONS, rather than a diffused color.
horizontal foils are great for blending the colours together. however, today veronica is going to use VERTICAL FOILS to get a final look with very defined pieces of blonde against very defined pieces of dark.
make sure to MIRROR the exact same thing you did on the first side on the second other so that you have symmetry.
that being said, we don’t want a symmetrical look on the top of the head. because her highlights are “chunkier”, a symmetrical look WILL look stripey.
to avoid this, you want to pay attention to how you foil the top on the first side and STAGGER the BLONDE a bit on the other side so that you don't have them lined up exactly.
here is a closeup of the thickness of the lowlight. you can see the section of spacing that veronica is holding is about THREE-QUARTERS OF AN INCH.
moving onto the back
veronica is going to use the SAME FOILING PATTERN and start at the bottom and work her way up. since she started on the right in the front, she will start in the back on the left.
PRO TIP: you don't want one side of the head to be processed a lot longer than the other side. by continuing to go counterclockwise, you avoid having the entire left side process for longer than the right side. you can also choose to go clockwise as well, just make sure to follow the same direction.
the next foil in our pattern is supposed to be the lowlight slice. however, veronica can see on the strand here that there is no blonde on the ends here so she will not colour it since it's already dark.
instead, she is going to SKIP the SPACING that she normally would have in between the blonde and just move onto the next blonde slice.
make sure when you get to theTOP of EACH SECTION that you're being very conscious of how your top foils are placed. you do want the pattern to be mirrored on both sides and as well from back to front.
for example, if you've ended the top of each section with a blonde slice, you'd want to do that with every section.
now every section has a piece of blonde at the top.
veronica kept a little diamond shaped section at the very top that she is going to color dark. this will fall evenly over all of the sections creating a small veil of dark over top of the highlights.
processing and TONING
all of ximenas foils are now in!
veronica is going to check on the processing and - it's the perfect lightness for us to wash out and tone!
this is the toner all applied. veronica chose a 9n to tone the blonde with. she doesn’t want to NEUTRALIZE all of the warmth out of there. a 9n will look like a champagney, creamy blonde at the end.
adding in the SECRET INGREDIENTS
ximena is now out of the sink now and we're ready to style. veronica is going to be prepping the hair with the nvenn products.
first she is putting in our nvenn replenish restoration oil. this oil is amazing to use after any colour service. nvenn’s ‘replenish’ is an AMAZING OIL that FILLS in the cracks and crevices of the hair. it SMOOTHS OUT the hair and FINISHES your hair with LUSTER AND SHINE. perfect for any hair style and it is very easy to use!
you're just going to put ‘replenish’ in from the mid shaft to the ends. it's a super LIGHT WEIGHT oil, so it's great for all textures of hair! you're not going to have to worry about it feeling too greasy or weighing the hair down.
next, veronica is going to be spritzing in ‘protect’ heat protector. this is an amazing heat protectant! it puts a layer on the hair to create a BARRIER on your hair to PROTECT it from the heat. it's also an ANTI-STATIC product that will cut down your blow dry time.
the last prep product veronica is going to use is the heat-activated weightless volumizer. it is great for giving your hair tons of BODY and VOLUME that lasts ALL DAY LONG. like all of our products, it is weightless. you can put it in your hair and not worry about feeling gunky, heavy, and weighed down.
just apply it to damp hair and finish your blow dry as you normally would.
a perfect colour
and finally after the blow dry, the look is COMPLETE!
ximena will see a different density of blonde depending on how she parts her hair. this will give her look some nice VARIETY when she's styling it.
you can see how the colour is falling to frame her face. it looks awesome!
if you guys have any questions about it, leave a comment below. i'll make sure to get them all answered for you.
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