COLOR CORRECTION: from level 5 to level 7 with TONERS

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the COLOR CORRECTION process

i’ve got igora royal lightener in the bowl and i’ve added a few grams of COOL additive. i want her end result to be on the warmer side while getting rid of the red. 

i put a TON of foils in to create the look that it’s ‘growing from her head’ like this. she wants her change to SUBTLE, so i’m not putting a color in between.

to formulate the color for her base, i’m taking the swatches and comparing them to her hair. i want the closest color to what she currently has. i’ve decided on ½ 6.34 and ½ 7.34 for the formula. 

 i want the color very saturated so i’ve mixed the color 1:1 with 5 vol.

i can see the color in the foils is ready to be rinsed. 

to formulate for her highlights, i’m going to use the darkest parts of the hair to determine the level. my formula will be ½ 7.8 and ½ 6.8. i’m choosing this as my formula because she wanted her change to be subtle. 

PRO TIP: there is a visual break in how light the hair looks from a level 6 to 7 and then a 7 to 8. what i mean by this is that a level 6 is called a “dark blonde” in the hairdressing world but it looks brown to the average person. a level 7 is when it starts to look like it belongs in the blonde family! from a level to 7 to 8 the hair will look like noticeably blonder. 

Here is a good example of all of these visual breaks on the same strand of hair. for this reason, i am going to mix multiple bowls of toner to ensure an even end result.

on the left, i have mixed 6.8 with 2T in jbeverly hills (1:1) as a demi. on the right, i have ½ 6.8 + ½ 7.8 with 2 grams of a blue additive and 2T (1:½).

i’m coloring the lightest portions of the hair first (so it can have a little extra processing time to deposit color), and working my way down. 

with the toners washed out, it’s time to STYLE! i’m going to be using a combination of ‘replenish’ and ‘fix’. you’ve seen me use this combination before. it’s perfect for SMOOTHING out the hair and STYLING the hair with body.