FOILING TECHNIQUE + how to create a WARM TONE hair color that isn’t brassy

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hello everyone. today we're here with sheena. we are going to be showing you how to get this beautiful ROSE PEDAL color. 

WARM COLORS look BEAUTIFUL on ethnic skin. getting the right tone becomes the challenge. ethnic hair naturally carries more warmth! in our experience, there is a small window of time before the client thinks that their hair looks TOO WARM aka BRASSY. i'm going to show you a really cool technique that will give you a warm (but not brassy) finish. in a nut shell, all you need to do is lift the hair slightly past the level that that color “normally lives” and then finish with your final desired color.  ---this will all make sense once you go through the step by step---

lets jump right in

so here we have sheena all SECTIONED out. i'm starting with just the four sections.

in this bowl, i have blondeme with 20 vol and cool additive.

sheena actually lives down south now. since i only get to see her once every 8months to a year, i'm going to leave a little bit of a VEIL around the perimeter to mask any major regrowth that will happen. as you can tell she has very THICK, COARSE HAIR. for this reason, i want to make sure that i make her highlights “CHUNKY ENOUGH” sp that people can see these flashes of color come through.

i'm going to be using diagonal back sections and i want to bring up the color fairly high.

I strategically added BLUE ADDITIVE to my lightener to help cut any excess warmth.

you’ve seen us do this foil pattern before. I’m going to back comb the hair and feather on the lightner according to how much color i want to see. for sheena, i will vary the height that i bring the lightener up to. i'm also going to leave some hair out between each foil.

as you can see by my tail comb, i will be bringing the lightener up HIGHER for this section.

PROTIP: if you are going to PRE-APPLY lightener to your foil to help it stick, make sure to apply it in the same pattern that you will be feathering the color on. here i ANGLED the lightener in the same way that i will be applying the color to the hair.

skip a section. then on this next foil, i am only bringing the color up to about the middle of the hair. so i had one high up, low, high up and then mid range.

PRO TIP: set aside any hair that you would want to leave out for the veil on top.

i’m going to WEAVE the sections above the parietal ridge. now, you've heard me say before; the size of the weave is really DEPENDANT ON HER HAIR TEXTURE. the thickness of the weave that i am showing you would be really chunky for someone if they had fine hair. any finer of a weave on sheena’s hair wouldn’t be very visible.

sheena wants to see more flashes of color up top so i will do BACK TO BACK foils on everything above her parietal ridge; the bottom foil will be a slice and the foil on top will be a weave.

again, remember to vary the heights that you are bringing your lightener up to for the slices.

Then of course, leave out your veil at the top of the quadrant.

FRAMING her face

she wants to see a lot of LIGHTNESS around her face so i will bring up her foils quite high.

i’m going to follow the same foiling pattern for the most part; i will leave out a section of dark between each foil. the only thing that will change is how i foil above the parietal ridge. rather than doing the foils back to back, i am just going to weave each section (i am still going to leave a section of dark in between each foil, i’m just skipping the slices).

so here are her foils ALL DONE. we can see these lighter pieces from her color before. i'm going to take a 5.8 from the j beverly hills line to cover it up. it is a really beautiful light brown color that is pretty neutral. it is from their mediterranean line which has a base made from gold and ash. 

i'm going to go ahead and cover up all of these lighter pieces here.

now here's her hair all done. we can see it's perfect to RINSE. 

PRO TIP: it's pretty safe to assume that most people despise having brassy hair. people that have a natural level 4 or darker will pull warmth A LOT easier than people that are a natural level 5 or 6. you can really cut the brassiness for those dark haired clients that want a level 7 finished result, if you just lift the hair to a level 8 and tone it back to a level 7. the underlying pigment at a level 7 is orange. if you lift slightly passed that, it won't expose any orange as it fades, therefore it'll fade less brassy.)

here's sheena’s hair all rinsed out. it is actually perfect. we can see a little bit of that RESIDUAL WARMTH, which is something that i want. i didn't want the under pigment of orange to be too intense and i do want some warmth so that the color doesn't fade too quickly.

now we're going to put a rose gold toner on (from pravana express toners) knowing that it's not going to look like rose gold. sheena's hair is showing a decent amount of warmth so with this rose gold over it, it'll end up looking like a soft peach.

PRO TIP: what you want to think about when you're formulating ANY FORMULA, is how do i want the color that is "showing or exposed" to change? think of it like a math equation; "do i want to add from it or take something at from it? 

-- if you need more info on how to formulate, you can watch our law of color video.

the color is DONE! now to style

okay, so here you can see she that the color looks beautiful! you'll be able to see the color better when it's dry. today i want to show you how you can get her hair straight without having to use a flat iron! and this technique will get it really, really SMOOTH.

cocktailing nvenn’s ‘replenish’ and nvenn’s ‘fix’ together is my favorite. i flat ironed my hair like once a year because of this trick. you can use this combo of products in anyone's hair and it'll smooth out their hair BETTER THAN YOU CAN IMAGINE! watch all this texture that's in her hair disappear! 

‘replenish’ fills in all those cracks and crevices in the hair. blow drying it into the hair, gives it a really SLEEK finish. 

'fix' is an amazing TEXTURE CHANGER. whether you're putting it into straighter hair to scrunch it or into wavy hair to blow out, it is amazing either way!

i’m going to evenly mist nvenn’s ‘fix’  all over and run some nvenn's 'replenish' through her ends and then blow out the hair.

check out how STRAIGHT her hair is from just power drying her hair with just my fingers! 

now that it's about 95% dry, i'm going to take a paddle brush through it to just smooth it out a bit more.

the COMPLETED look

so that's it for today's video. i hope you enjoyed it. 

this is a technique that i use on all my ethnic clients that want a warmer end result without it looking really brassy. 

this is a really great technique. let me know when you try it at home and if you liked it too.

also definitely give  'fix' and 'replenish' a try. you'll be able to get the hair nice and sleek without needing to flat iron it. 

if you have any questions or comments, please leave them down below and we will get back to you. also subscribe to our channel! we release new videos every friday💖